This weekend it was time for my favourite fashion show of the year in Zurich: The Mode Suisse. The presentation of the spring/summer collections of ten selected Swiss labels took place on a rooftop in the city of Zurich during sunset but felt more like a sunrise of colours.
On this evening I found fresh hope that Switzerland is finally getting more colourful. While the audience was dressed more or less dressed in dark colours, the runway was filled with a (for Zurich) unusual amount of colour. Julia Heuer’s bright rainbow palette joined Jacqueline Loekito’s sweet pastels and Mourjians sparkling sequins. Emerald green was a very prominent colour among several designers and we saw a lot of plissé and knitwear. Diversity was the topic of the evening, models of all shapes, ages and skin tones rocked the catwalk and questioned stereotypical gender roles.
Jacqueline Loekito:
You We Us
The third collection of Swiss-based British/Indonesian designer Jacqueline Loekito presented at Mode Suisse is inspired by Picasso’s painting Acrobat and Young Harlekin and dominated by pastel blue and pink with diamond patterns. The classical baby colours are a perfect choice for her favourite topic: The questioning of gender roles. No matter your gender, love unites us, is her message. Don’t be fooled: Jacqueline doesn’t just put men into women’s clothes, she sweeps the borders between completely away. While her last collection was a loud and angry scream, this one shows a softer and calmer version of her themes, surprising and refreshing. Her accessories deserve another mention: My craving of the eve goes to her heart-shaped bag and the big amazing hats. Want!
Amorphose :
Will Spring Come to Me?
Lugano-based designer Giancarlo Bello asks if spring will come to him and gives the answer himself: Yes, it’s already here and it’s this beautiful collection of exquisitely handcrafted outfits, some of them more sculptures than just looks. The designer was inspired by the metamorphosis of a young woman and translated his feelings into feathers and lace, fresh green shades as well as feminine red. I think everybody in the audience remembered the moment from his last show when model Toni Dreher stepped onto the catwalk wearing a red round shield in front of her, this time her shield was green and made of springlike plants as a warrior of grace from the mind of Amorphose.
Julia Heuer:
Superbloom
Julia Heuer’s show was the first one and a strong promise of an evening full of excitement. Julia did what she can do best: Her vibrant Prints and unique Japanese Shibori plissé, combined with simple cuts that don’t take the attention from the beauty of the fabrics. The former head of print design of Jakob Schläpfer just knows what she does and stays true to herself. Please just don’t stop doing more dear Julia. I would wear every single piece of this collection straight away, it’s happy fashion for sophisticated people.
Mourjjan :
Circus of Life
Mourjjan’s circus is an elegant and sparkling collection of diamond-pattern, generously used sequins and a play between creating big volume and sext cuts, fierce and gentle at the same time. The flowing creations of the Roland Rahal are made to brighten up party nights with their glamour. While their last collection was in rather dark colours, this one features a bright and absolutely stunning colour palette that makes me love it much more. It’s fashion for a modern woman who is neither angel or demon, but unites the ambivalence of our world with its million of facets in her soul and looks.
The probably best thing about Mode Suisse besides the show is always the company. Thanks to those two for sharing the excitement with me. Doesn’t Cherry Greta rock that Vixen by Micheline Pitt leather skirt?
Pictures: Courtesy of Mode Suisse by Alexander Palacios
